Hey there and welcome (back) to Free the Tree!
This week we finally got enough soil to transplant the Blue Kush plant which started showing some Phosphorous issues which got us a little worried. 
Apart from that we also finally received the Neem Oil to start application on the plants and get rid of these nasty little Thrips; Let’s get into it.


Blue Kush Phosphorous issues and Transplantation

We had definitely waited way too long to transplant this little one, the roots started coming out the bottom of the pot, the veins of the leaves were turning purple, safe for the underside…
She also had totally stopped growing which really had us worried. He’s some images, but before that check out our article on transplanting a weed plant if you want to know more.

Blue Kush Phosphorous issues

So this was the first time it had ever happened to us, the plant had stopped growing, the veins and the bottom side of the leaves were turning purple. 
Here’s a couple pics, as always you can click on them to get the full view.


Signs of phosphorous issues on weed leaf

Leaf turning Purple – Signs of Phosphorous issues.


Main leaf Vein turning purple

Main vein turning Purple and stopped growth.


Weed plant starting to grow back

Growth starting back up after Transplantation.


Transplanting our Blue Kush

We definitely waited waaaay to long to transplant this little one. The main reason why was that I didn’t have enough soil so really couldn’t..


Compressed roots starting to sick out of bottom pot holes

Roots starting to stick out of the bottom of the pot.


Compressed roots at the bottom of soil

Well developed root system of the Blue Kush


Half way through the blue kush transplantation

Well developed root system of the Blue Kush

As you can see with in those 2 first pictures the roots were definitely blocked and compressed, which easily explained why the plant had stopped growing and the Phosphorous issues. 
Since the roots of the plant is her only way to get nutrients from the soil to the top of the plant, by having them so compressed there was no way she could develop well. 
During the couple days following the transplantation she started showing signs of growth right away which definitely reassured us.


Thrips Treatment continuing

During this week we’ve been spraying the plants about 15 minutes before lights out every other day. The objective of this is to kill any survivors or newly hatched Thrips that could start the infestation back up.

Since the first treatment we’ve only seen 1 larvae on the plants so it seems to be working pretty good. Really hoping that this is the end of this infestation, but just to be sure we’ll be spraying neem oil every couple days for the next 10 days. 

We grouped together all the info on how to kill Thrips over here if you want to know more.


Organic Neem Oil used to kill Thrips

Bottle of Organic Neem Oil

5 Plants at the end of 4th week


Alright guys that it’s for this one, until next time
Be safe and grow easy!

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Hey there and welcome (back) to Free The Tree!
Today we’re going to go over the 3rd week of our current culture. The two main things that happened this week is the fact that we transplanted our 2 Big Buddha Cheese plants into fabric pots and… Thrips started showing their faces again!
We had the issue during our previous culture and hadn’t seen their faces in over a month.. Really though we had dealt with all those suckers.
We’ve already done a couple articles on Thrips so we won’t go in depth about it but here’s a couple links if you want to know more about them.



Transplanting the Big Buddha Cheese Cuttings into Fabric Pots

You may have noticed that in our previous report we placed our Cheese and Blue Thai strains in Air Pots. With these 2 Big Buddha’s and the 1 Blue Kush remaining we decided to go for fabric pots, allowing us to test out the differences between each and maybe determine which is best. We’ll see in a couple weeks of one or the other performs best.

On the transplantation side, we already did a full guide on Marijuana Transplantation this way if you want to know more, here we’ll just share a couple pictures of the process.

Making room in the soil in order to place the BBC plant

BBC before transplantation


Big buddha cheese successfully transplanted

BBC in its new soil


BBC with just one leaf left after strong curing session

Cured plant after transplantation

As you can see we decided to cure the plant as soon as we transplanted her and we didn’t go easy on them.
The reason behind this is that all her previous leaf mass was damaged due to stresses on travel. Bear in mind that these were branches not that long ago.

The objective of this cure is for her to grow a nice, new, leaf coverage that will allow her to photosynthesis the light in the optimally.
Here’s a before/after curing our other plant

marijuana plant before pruning the leaves

BBC before curing


marijuana plant after pruning the leaves

BBC after curing

Now you might be thinking “they’re crazy, those plants don’t have enough leaf mass”, especially for that first one. You’d be surprised how well marijuana (aka weed) adapts are grows, here’s a couple pictures just days after the transplantation (as always, click on the picture to get a full view)

Just recently transplanted, couple leaves starting to grow

2 days after transplanting


5 days later new stage of leaf coming in

5 days after transplant
(leaves are wet)


strong leaf mass has grown back in a week

7 days after transplant

You see? in just a week both plants grew back enough leaf mass to get back to growing, some new branches are starting to come out, they’re going to be perfect for our scrog! 🙂

Sidenote: The droopyness of the Blue Kush (bottom left) are the first signs are the roots being blocked, this is what happens when you wait too long to transplant.)


Thrips are back!

During this week we also got a pretty nice come back of Thrips, we killed at least 15 larva’s by hand and removed the Apex of the most infected plant.. Thankfully we’re going for a scrog so it was necessary anyway.
Our preferred option to deal with Thrips is by using Neem Oil since it’s totally natural and easy to use. 

2 young thrips on marijuana

2 thrips larva’s on leaf


Sprout sprayed with neem oil solution

Neem Oil sprayed on Marijuana plant

Since we didn’t have any on hand we had to wait a little week in order to receive it my mail. While waiting for it here’s what we did in order to prevent spreading:

  1. Increase the humidity and drop the temps: As we’ve covered in our other articles linked above, Thrips like warm and dry weather.
    We kept the grow room at at least 50% Humidity and tops 23°C
  2. Get it windy: They also like still environments so we got our fans pointing of the leaves of our plants.
  3. Hunt: We decided not to wait, as soon as we’d spot a Thrips larva we’d kill it.
    Every time it’s one less eating up your plant and laying eggs.
  4. Spray your plants with warm water. About 15 minutes before lights out we’d spray warm water all over (and under) our plants.

These steps won’t get rid of all the Thrips but it’ll definitely slow down their spreading and the damages done to your plants.

Once we received the Neem Oil we’d repeat step 4 but adding the Oil in the water. This was done 3 days in a row, then we waited a couple days and re-sprayed the plants.
Haven’t seen more signs of those nasty suckers since.


Alright folks that it for week 3! 
See you guys for next weeks update, until then be safe and grow easy!


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Check out our Babies! Every week there’s a new grow report 😉

Hey there and welcome (back) to Free the Tree!

This week was pretty cool, we received 4 beautiful Big Buddha Cheese cuttings, most our seeds broke the ground and we transplanted most our plants into air and fabric pots. Let’s get into it.


First Cannabis plants sprouting

Within a couple days after planting the seedlings, the first plants started to sprout. As we started to say in the previous post, we weren’t going to make the same mistake as last time so we got these little guys straight into the grow room.
We installed a CoolTube since last grow so our heat issues are under control and not an issue anymore. Here’s a couple pictures of them breaking the ground

Close up on first leaves breaking the soil


First leaves breaking the shell


Plant standing up and first leaves showing

These 3 pictures were took within 24 hours, isn’t it crazy how quickly things happen at this point in time?
Down under the soil, their root system are starting to grow and conquer the space.


Big Buddha Cheese cuttings

A friend of ours that lives in the state next door has been nurturing a BBC strain for a couple years, increasing its strength and Render. 
Our first plant was a cutting from her, you can check out the couple articles we’ve done on that grow here, needless to say we’re really excited to get another crack at her 🙂

He had really we prepared them for us, although they did have a couple deficiencies going since we waited a little too long to get out there.
Here’s what they looked like during the first couple days (as always, click on the picture to get the full view)

Cuttings in the grow room



After receiving these little ones we needed to give them a couple days to get recover from the stress of the transport and all, after which we will select 2, transplant to larger pots and defoliate them so that they quickly grow new and healthy leaves.


Air pots and last sprouts

By the end of week 2 all our seedlings had sprouted apart from the two seeds that died (RIP). 
We also decided to get 2 of our plants into our air pots right away. We also hesitated to transplant the BBC plants but decided to wait another day or two. 

On the other hand, the Blue Thai (BT) and Cheese plants are really growing slowly, whereas the Blue Kush, that sprouted after the BT had already grown nice first leaves.

We’re not sure if it’s due to the fact that they’re in the Air pots while the BT is in regular pots, but that would seem logical.. We might have been better to wait a little before getting them in those pots. Check them out

Cheese plant just breaking the ground


Blue Thai growing first stage leaves


Blue Kush in the early Vegetative Stage

Now like we said, that Blue Thai had actually broken the ground before the Blue Kush, see how much of a difference?? I really feel like it was an error to get them that quickly into the air pots that quickly.

Well folks that brings us to the end of week 2, see you guys next week 😉

Until then, be safe and grow easy!


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Hey there and welcome (back) to Free the Tree!
So this is the first post of this new grow journal series, it’s going to be an exciting one 🙂 
Here’s what we got in store for this report:

Marijuana Strains: This time around we’re going to grow 4 different strains. Now generally this isn’t the best idea since flowering times and nutrient needs can, and generally are different.
So we made sure that the flowering times were all about the same and hopefully their nutrient needs will also be about the equal.
Here’s the four strains were going with this time around:

  • Blue Kush
  • Blue Thai
  • Big Buddha Cheese (cuttings)
  • Cheese

We should have some beautiful plants and pics for you by the flowering stage. 
Here’s the context of the grow:

Soil: Still using the a non-enriched medium
Types of pots: We’re doing a test on this one, we’re using Air Pots, Fiber Pots and regular pots. We decided to do a test between each to see what the renders of each are.
Lighting: 400W HPS for the vegetative stage, then we’ll switch to a Sodium light

Let’s get into the nitty gritty of this post, the germination of the seeds and the first days in the grow house


Germinating the marijuana seeds

We did a full “how-to” on germinating your marijuana seed a little while back so we won’t go back over each step in detail, don’t hesitate to go check it out if you need more info than what’s given here.

The tap root of each strain really didn’t come in the same time. The Blue Thai’s tap root broke the seed in less than 2 days, whereas the cheese plant took about 3 days.
Here’s a couple pictures of each step of seed germination, as always you can click on them to have a full view.

First day, the seeds have just been put in the wet paper towel

Seeds just set in wet paper tower


Next day, small tap root breaking the seed

Tap root breaking the shell


Blue Thai’s Huge Tap Root

As you can see, we waited a little long with the Blue Thai seed and it developed a huge tap root. To be honest it kind of scared us but it the end definitely not an issue 🙂 


Planting Germinated seeds

Once the tap root is a little over a centimeter long it’s time to get them into the soil, about 1cm down. 
Within a couple days you’ll see the sprout breaking the ground. As soon as that happens within 24 hours you’ll see it stand straight, get rid of the shell and fan out her first leaves to capture the light. It’s pretty beautiful to watch.
This time around we didn’t make the same mistake as last time when we left the light source too far away for the sprout, making the plant stretch for the light source.

Here’s these steps in image:

2 cm hole in soil in order to place the marijuana seed

About 2cm Hole for the Seed


Seed placed into the 2cm hole

Cannabis Seed in soil


First sprout breaking the ground

Blue Thai’s Huge Tap Root

Most of the seeds broke the ground within 2 days after planting them, although we did lose one Cheese and One Blue Kush seed that died in the soil… The cheese taproot had started to dry up within the paper towel, giving it little chance to develop within the ground. The Blue Kush one I think we mismanaged the watering of the soil, killing it within the ground. 

By this the time the last picture above was taken it had been exactly 7 days since we had placed the seed in the soil, closing the first week of this grow.

Until next time, be safe and grow easy!


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Hey there and welcome (back) to Free The Tree!
We’ve now arrived at the final post of this grow, it was short but intense! But don’t worry we’ve already got 5 seeds that have germinated and 4 Big Buddha Cheese clones going, next series is going to be even better 🙂

But we’re getting ahead of ourselves, today we’re going to cover the harvest and curing of our 2 Fruit Auto flowering Marijuana plants, the 2 others aren’t ready yet.
As you will see, the 2 we’re about to cut are are super small, but the 2 one buds are looking ok considering, especially one of them. Regardless, as soon as those autoflowering plants started flowering on their own we knew that this would be a small one;

Let’s get into it!

Day 59 – Holding back on harvesting

By now we had been observing the trichomes every day or two for the past 7 days or so, the two plants on the left were entering their 3rd and last cycle of browning pistils and most of the trichomes were milky. Furthermore they had been in a Nitrogen deficiency state for awhile now, so we new those buds were going to be super light, but suuuper tasty.
So really at this point they were ready to be harvested, but so small that we wanted to give them as many more days as possible to fatten..

The two one bud plants (on the right) were no where near ready, many trichomes were still clear, they had little or no signs of Nitrogen deficiency and they hadn’t even entered the 2nd round of browning pistils. We figured we had at least a week left on those two.

Here’s a couple of pics of these babies at this stage, as always you can click on them to see the full screen version.

4 Fruit Strain plants at the end of the flowering stage


One of the 2 One Buds


One of the 2 not One Buddig
(remember on day 51 we cut the side branches)

Now to show you with more detail what we meant when we said that the one buds still had white pistils and the other 2 plants were entering the 3rd phase of browning pistils here’s 2 close-ups on one of each

Mostly white pistils on the buds


Marijuana Pistils have started to become brown


Day 61 – Harvesting and curing the 2 first plants

By this time we started seeing some trichomes starting to turn and golden/brownish color, which is a sign that the THC levels are reducing and the CBD is rising. Depending on the type of plant and what you want as a high you might want to wait more, but since this is a Hybrid we don’t want her indica side to come out too much, it’s chop chop time.

Close up on 2 fruit strains ready to be harvested

Fruit ready to be harvested


One Bud marijuana so heavy it leans sideways

One Bud leaning under bud weight


One of the 2 not One Budding
(remember on day 51 we cut the side branches)

As you can see once out of the grow room her colors finally show on camera 🙂 Her strong nitrogen deficiency is a sign that her taste should be great, and those purple hints on the top of the buds just make her sexy haha.

We also placed a little picture of our one bud in the middle. As you can see her root system and stem aren’t strong enough to hold the weight of the bud. We had to strap her up a little in order to help her stand up straight.

Getting back to the harvest, now that the plants are cut we need to get to curing them, we covered that with more detail in our previous article so we won’t go in detail on how to do so, but here are some picture (don’t expect the fattest buds..)

Close up on fruit bud with purple colors on the flowers and leaves

Purple bud


Fruit plant before curing


2 Fruit plants after curing

Crazy how much size they lose before and after curing them no?! Now it’s time to get them to dry for about 10 days.

[su_quote]Reminder: As we said in our previous article, don’t throw out your stems and leaves, you can reuse them for many things, from Hash with the leaves to Tea with the branches; (how to make hash over here) [/su_quote]


Day 63 – Nitrogen Deficiency kicking in

In just 2 days the Nitrogen deficiency had started to advance, the bottom leaves started drying and were almost ready to fall off and the symptoms started spreading further up the plant.

Here’s a couple pictures of the 2 last plants of this cycle

2 plants soon ready to be harvested

Nitrogen deficiency spreading upward


Close up on marijuana flower

Close up on bud on the right


Main leaves almost all eaten up by nitrogen deficiency

2nd plant about a week short of harvest


Day 68 – Harvest and Curing the last plants

By now the nitrogen deficiency had advanced well, the pistils had started to brown for their 3rd time and the trichomes were all nice and milky, time harvest these last babies! Here’s what they looked like

One bud fruit strain cannabis harves

Plant 1


nice plant freshly harvested and ready to cure

Plant 2

As always, after this we got to get curing, here’s a couple more picture

2nd plant about a week short of harvest


Top of the Apex bud

Close up on bud on the right


Cured fruit strain plants

Plant 1 and 2 after curing

Now that we’ve cured them we got to get them drying. As we’ve said in the previous post, we just tie them upside down either in the grow room or in a cupboard. Since we’ve already started germinating new seeds this time they’re going in the cupboard!

Here’s what the 4 plants look like in there, you’ll be able to see right away the different in size and in color. The color difference is due to the fact that the 2 smaller plants are now in their 8th day of drying. Actually a little of the size difference is also linked to this, since while drying they loose in mass.

Different stages of drying marijuana buds

Fruit Plants drying in cupboard


scissors after curing the plants

Scissor full of resin and pistils


leftover leaves from the harvest

Leaves ready to go into the freezer for later use (home made hash soon!)


Well that’s it for this one guys, next time we’ll cover the germination of the Blue Thai, Blue Kush and the Cheese seeds, can’t wait 🙂

Until then, be safe and grow easy!

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Hey there and welcome (back) to Free The Tree!
This past week we started harvesting the first plants. If you’ve been following you’re aware that the flowering stage started way too early, meaning that we were expecting a small harvest. Although its small the buds are beautiful and smell great! Some of them even started turning purple during the last days.

We base ourselves on the trichomes in order to choose harvest time so there are a couple day delays between each cut. Furthermore, the first plant was cut a little early.
This was done in order to see the difference in the high of the Critical+ 2.0 when the trichomes are all milky and when some started turning brown.

Day 54 – Harvesting the first Critical + 2.0 Plant

While observing the trichomes we saw that they were all nice an milky and some pistils had started to turn brown for the 3rd time. These combined signs show that harvest time is soon, although we could have waited 2/3 more days.
Here’s what she looked like before harvesting (as always click to see the full pic)

Critical + showing nitrogen deficiency


1st critical 2 plant before harvesting

Good looking no? Not huge but still good looking. It would of been better to have some more nitrogen deficiency going before cutting her, improving the taste down the line, but we have to shoot in the middle between taste and wanted high here.

Harvesting and Curing

Once we cut our plant it’s time to cure the buds, what do I mean by that? I mean cutting off the sections that we don’t want to keep for smoking purposes, aka the leaves.
As you can see on some of the picture although we chop them off they still contain large amounts of trichomes, and thus THC, so it’s important to keep those leaves! Personally I store them in the freezer until I have enough to make some hash with it :p (how-to article over here 😉 )

Let’s get into the curing of these babies

First plant before curing the leaves off

Just harvested the first Critical + 2.0


Focus on marijuana bud after curing

Close up on Cured Bud


Close up on trichomes under the marijuana leaves

Marijuana leaves full of Trichomes


First plant after curing the leaves off

Critical+ 2.0 Autoflower cured and ready to dry


Critical plant drying in the dark

First Plant Drying

So to recap on the different steps in order to get your marijuana buds to a smokable state

How to harvest and cure your Marijuana Harvest

  1. Cut the plant
  2. Remove the main leaves
  3. Remove and/or trim the secondary leaves off (store them)
  4. Tie your buds upside down in a dark environment for about 10 days.
    Here’s how I personally tell when they’re ready to be jarred: Every couple days bend the stem. Once you feel it crack, but not break, they’re ready to be placed in the jar.
  5. Place you Marijuana buds in air proof jars. Fill the jars up to about 80% leaving room for your buds to breath.
  6. For the 2 first weeks open the jar. The first couple days keep it open for about an hour, then progressively reduce that time as the buds dry.

During those 2 last weeks you’ll be tempted to smoke your buds the smell will be so good but wait! The taste hasn’t developed yet, your future self with thank you later 😉

Here’s a couple pictures of the plants still in their flowering stage

top view of 5 remaining plants


close up on the one bud plant flowering


Day 58 – Harvesting the second Critical + 2.0 plant

As we said in earlier we wanted to see the difference between a earlier and later stage harvest of this critical plant. By this time we started seeing some brown trichomes all over the place which is a sign of the levels of THC reducing and the CBD levels rising, time to cut!

The temperatures differences between day and night were more important these last couple days and she surprised us by turning purple on the top leaves, giving a beautiful Apex Bud; Check it out

Marijuana bud compared to the size of scissors

(small) Marijuana bud vs scissors


Purple bud and leaves

Purple Marijuana bud


Critical 2 purple bud due to cold

Cured Purple Bud (full of trichomes)


Critical + 2.0 Autoflowering after the flowering stage

Second plant cured and ready to dry


Drying marijuana

Second Plant Drying


And there you have it guys! In about 3 weeks we will be able to smoke our first joints of this one, we’ll keep you posted on that 😉

If you want to know more about the Critical + 2.0 Autoflower strain check out our guide and review




Until next time, be safe and grow easy!

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Hey guys and welcome (back) to Free the Tree! This past week was full of events, this might be a long one.

We validated the fact that we had a Thrips invasion and not a Spider Mite one, thank god! (How to tell the difference? We did a guide here 😉 ) These suckers are much easier to kill than spider mite.
Also, since we’re in the late flowering stage we can’t really use anything on our flowers without taking the risk of spraying anything, even Neem oil could leave a taste and ruin the harvest.. So again, thank god it’s thrips and not Mites.

During this week we also saw some crazy Thrichome and bud growth 🙂 They’re smelling beauuuutifully
Let’s get started

Day 48 – Trichomes all over the place!

Our Critical + 2.0 has been growing more and more Thricomes on her buds, they’re all white and powdery, i’m loving this! here’s a couple pictures (which we had a microscope to show you what they looked like up close)

As always click on the picture to see the full screen version

Focus on marijuana bud with trichomes all over



Close up on thousands of trichomes all over the leaf and pistils

Can you see all those little white specs? Those are the trichomes 🙂
You may be wondering what the fuss is all about, we’ll do a full article very soon on this but basically here’s the deal.

Tricomes are what contain, at a specific moment in the plants development, a molecule called TetraHydroCannabinol, aka THC. Tricomes contain many other molecules such as CBD, produced by the Tricomes once they deteriorate (become gold like color)

At this time under the eye glass we can see that they’re totally clear which means that they’re not quite ready, we want them to be a nice milky color in our situation.

Trichomes are important to track since they’re the best way to know when to cut, so if you don’t have one yet buy a magnifying glass!


Day 49 – Fattening buds, Browning pistils and Nitrogen Deficiency

The flowers have been growing more and more with almost daily evolution, it’s really a pleasure to watch these plants grow, although we’ve been fighting these thrips (we’ll cover that in the next section).

As you can see the 2 plants on the far left are showing mid to late stage Nitrogen deficiencies with all leaves impacted. They seem to be further along the flowering stage than their 2 fruit strain counter-parts. I think this is due to the fact that their soil in much less compact, thus their root systems aren’t as solid.
On top of that we kept side branches to make an A/B test between this style and One Bud technique (What are the Different types of cultures? Here’s a guide).

2 One bud plants in flowering stage


Focus on Marijuana flower pistils turning brown


Marijuana Nitrogen deficiency flowering stage

Browning Pistils – Round 1

In the middle picture you can see that the pistils have started browning, and as you may have read this can mean that the plant is ready, keyword being can.
Marijuana flower pistils will turn brown 2 or 3 times during the flowering stage so do not harvest here, you’ll be cutting yourself short of up to 50% of your harvest!

Those different rounds of browning pistils followed by the flower opening back up (white pistils) is her way to grown and increase the size of the flowers, you’ll notice those buds getting bigger and bigger as it goes on, but don’t wait too long! 😉

(If you’re wondering, the best way to identify when to harvest is by observing the trichomes.)


Day 51 – Confirming the presence of Thrips

As you may be aware, we’ve noticed signs of a Thrips or Spider mite invasion, we were leaning for Thrips since the white marks were spread out all over the place but we we’re positive.

In order to be sure we decided, for an hour or so, to drop the humidity levels, take the fans off the plants and raise the heat making the perfect environment for Thrips, hoping they would show their faces.
And sure enough, after leaving it for a little while we could see a couple of those suckers, both on the larva and post-larva stage (no adults though, suspect I killed it couple days ago).
If you want to know more about Thrips and Spider Mites we’ve liked to our articles below.

Here are a couple pics of these suckers, in total we had to have killed about 10 of them across all our plants.

Thrips spotted on a leaf


Focus on thrips


Thrips size compared to finger nail

As you may know, Thrips are between 0.5mm and 1.5mm long, so they can be pretty hard to spot but it’s defenitly . In comparison to my index finger nail its super tiny!

If you’re wondering if you spotted one or not, move the leaf around you’ll be able to see if it moves or not. If it does than that sucker is a pest, kill it! (I used my fingers when I spotted some).

As we’ve said in our previous report, since we’re so far along within the flowering stage we can’t use any treatment by fear of leaving a taste in our buds, so we’ve been hunting them by hand and keeping conditions as unfavorable as possible for them.

Thankfully the infestation isn’t that bad and our plants are surviving it fine, showing healthy signs, smelling beautifully so we’re not too worried.




Day 51 – Cutting Side Branches

As we said further up, we tested different styles and one of are buds is really small, so we decided to cut the side branches in order for her to focus on the Apex for the end of her life.

It’s really late in the game to hope for a real impact of this, but we still decided to cut the for satellite branches, hopefully the main bug will get somewhat bigger.

Cutting the side buds

Here’s a couple pictures of how we cut the branches. It’s pretty straight forward, you place you scissors at the intersection of the branch and the main stem and make a clean cut.

Using scissors to cut marijuana


Harvesting side branches

Curing Marijuana Buds

As you can see on the pictures below, these buds are real small, but they still look and smell beautiful, can’t wait to taste this Fruit strain :p


Close up on marijuana buds and trichomes


Small harvest after curing buds

Curing the buds are one of the most important steps, the aim is to cut off all the main leaves and as many of the small leaves as possible.
Since this is personal consumption, and the small leaves near the buds have so many trichomes, we decided to just trim them; but if you’re intending on selling your harvest it’s more aesthetic to just keep the flowers.

Side note, keep your leaves and stems! we’ll do a full post on what can be done with them, from tea to hash you can do a whole lot with everything so don’t toss it out.


Day 53 – Fattening Buds and first signs of readiness

Although our plants are objectively small, which we were prepared for, some of these buds are getting nice and fat 🙂 The beautiful smell is all over the room and their shining with trichomes. It’s going to be a small but tasty harvest!

Top view of the 6 cannabis plants


Top view of the 6 plants at night

Curing Marijuana Buds

Side branch bud growing


One bud mid way through flowering


Bud turning purple on its edges


Alright guys that’s all for this one!
Until next time, be safe and grow easy 😉

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Check out all out Indoor Growing Tips

Hey guys and welcome (back) to our latest grow report!
For the past couple days the buds of the critical+ 2.0 plants have been growing more and more and the first trichomes have started to show! Exciting times.

The white marks on the leaves have also been spreading across the different plants. We believe it’s spider mites or thrips infestation but still unsure.. We’ll cover that is a separate post but in the mean time if you’re wondering how to see the difference check out our article on the subject.

Let’s get into it!


Critical+ 2.0 Buds Growing

Between day 40 and 45 the buds of these marijuana strains totally transformed. Whether it is on the Critical+ 2.0 or the Flower strain, we’ve seen some strong growth. We decided to divided the evolution of both strains in 2 articles, the second one is coming soon 😉

Critical+ 2.0 Autoflowering Bud evolution

The 2 critical plants are looking pretty good although one of them is the one being invaded by whatever pest we’ve been dealing with which is most likely hurting it. If you’ve been following us you’re aware that the flowering stage started without us wanting us to, but we’re actually pretty happily surprised by a couple of the plants.

Let’s look at the evolution of these 2 plants, remember that you can click on the images to see them better and in a row

Day 40 – Clear Bud Spots

Here’s the start point for this 5 day adventure. Now of course compared to what’s to come they’re nowhere near ready and there’s many steps left within the flowering stage. Once we’ve gone through the whole lifecycle we will group together the pictures in order to see the different steps in image


Plant 1

Focus on Critical+ 2.0 in early flowering stage


Plant 2

Top view of critical plant


You can see that the buds aren’t at the same stage. The flowers are starting to have a round top on plant 1 whereas plant 2 they’re still in a cone type shape.

We’re also testing 2 different styles of culture here, on plant 1 we decided to keep a couple side branches and plant 2 we are going for a one bud situation (this way to learn more on the different type of culture)


Day 41


Plant 1


Plant 2


Here’s a focus on the middle stages of the first plant.
Normally these flowers will get big enough to cover the spaces on the stem, creating an illusion of one big fat bud at harvest time. We’ll see if that’s what happens or not

Close up on middle stage flowers


Day 42 –  Well developed Apex Buds

Mid way through our journey you can see that the flower on the Apex of the second plant now has rounded up. We basically have a 2/3 day delay the development of both plants.
On her end the first plants main bud is starting to dense up, whereas the bottom buds are starting de develop themselves and will soon start to grow also.


Plant 1

Horizontal view of flowering critical marijuana


Plant 2


Day 44 – Middle and Branch buds catching up

As you can see 2 days later both flowers on the Apex’s are nice are round and growing more and more. They’ve adopted a cone type shape.
The lower level buds are differently developed, some also share the dome shape especially on the first plant. On the second plant you can see that many of those still have the pistil like shape, these might just have to go, especially the one’s that don’t have direct access to sun light.


Plant 1

All the buds of the first plant well developed


Plant 2


Before we get to the last step of our this journey here’s a horizontal view of these 2 babies (critical plants are the 2 in front)


Day 45 – All buds developed

By day 45 the Apex of both plants are domed shape. The Top of First plant is now becoming denser, while the middle and side branch buds are starting to develop a nice amount of trichomes all over the place.

The second plant is still a little behind but they’re getting there. On the upper levels of the plants trichomes are appearing around the buds and on the near leaves,


Plant 1

Last step, critical 2 now has well developed buds


Plant 2

Critical + 2.0 onebud starting to develop


Snapshot of the Buds before and after

Here’s a before/after picture of both plants so that you can easily  see the difference in just 5 days


Plant 1 – Day 40

Focus on Critical+ 2.0 in early flowering stage

Plant 1 – Day 45

Last step, critical 2 now has well developed buds


Plant 2 – Day 40

Top view of critical plant

Plant 2 – Day 45

Critical + 2.0 onebud starting to develop


Crazy no? In just 5 days the flowers are unrecognisable, and this is just the start! We’ve come many more steps to go before they’re ready to be harvested and cured. We’ll be covering it all soon

Until next time, be safe and grow easy!


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Hey there and welcome (back) to our growing guide! This has been a turbulent session with these auto-flowering plants, it was our first time with these types, full of learnings! We’ve actually grouped it all together in an in-depth article if you want to know more.

During these couple days so many things happened, we started noticing some weird white marks on a couple leaves of our plants, had to prune some branches and pop-corn buds off and started seeing some nice bud growth getting started.

Before getting into it here’s some pics of the plant during these days, don’t hesitate to clic on them so see the full picture.

Day 36


Critical + 2.0 auto flowering 2 weeks into the flowering stage


Focus on the center buds of the weed plant


Fruit strain marijuana 2 weeks into the flowering stage


Day 37


Fruit strain early nitrogen deficiency


Fruit and Critical+ 2.0 starting to grow buds


Focus on Critical + 2.0 buds


Day 38


2 fruit strain weeds flowering


6 flowering marijuana plants


First signs of Spider mites infestation on our plants


Day 39


First step of one bud technique


Top view of our indoor culture


Focus on secondary buds of critical plant


Day 36 – White marks on leaves and pinching the stem

On day 36 two things really went down.

The first concerns pinching the stem of the plant where we are growing multiple side branches (bottom right one).  The objective of this is to reduce the amount of nutrients going to the Apex and redirect it to the side flowers.
It should also create a knot on the stem allowing the plant to store more nutrients. This is something that should be done during the flowering stage, but as we said in one of our previous posts these babies started their flowering stage a little early.

The second is that we started noticing some white marks on a couple leaves of one of our Critical+ 2.0 flowers. At that time we though it was some kind of deficiency, just couldn’t believe we had spider mites. We decided to see how would evolved over the next couple days before acting (worst thing to do ever!!); We should of just cut of those leaves right away..
If you want to now more on those little suckers and what they can do to your plant, check out our article on Spider Mites (aka the Tetranychidae Family)


Pinching the stem of Marijuana

As we said earlier, pinching the step of your cannabis plant will:

  • Reduce the nutrients brought from the roots to the area after the pinching area
  • Increase the nutrients brought to the rest of the plant
  • Create a knot allowing her to stop more nutrients
  • Should balance out the nutrient distribution on all branches or bud area’s

Here’s more on this

How to pinch the stem of Cannabis


  1. Identify where to pinch. This will depend on your goal.
  2. Place your index on one side of the stem and your them on the other
  3. Squeeze the stem until you fell/hear a clicking noise. You will know it when you feel it.

In our case we wanted to increase the amount of nutrients sent from the roots to the side branches, so we decided to pinch the stem just under the first level of buds.

This does not mean that the top of the plant won’t have any food, remember that plants produce their food through photosynthesis, what comes up from the roots are “just” extra nutrients. Furthermore, nutrients will continue to flow, just not as much.

In case you squeeze way too had and you’ve broken the outer layers of the plant place some tape around it until she fixes herself up.


Squeezing the step with thumb and index


Appearance of White Spots on the leaves

We started noticing that a couple leaves of one of our Critical + 2.0 plant started to have a couple little white marks grouped together on them.

You can see on the images on the right that each leaf has more or less marking on them.. Little did we know but that was the start of our infestation and the leaf with the most marking was the base leaf of it all.

At this point we didn’t really know what it was and thought it was some type of deficiency. As most first people first encountering spider mites.
In that spirit we at the next watering we decided to increase the amount of nutrients given, which didn’t hurt but didn’t help out for the infestation.

To make matters a little worst we also decided to lower humidity levels to about 45% since the flowering stage has begun. As we’ve covered in our guide, spider mites hate humidity and love hot dry weather (which we learned after hand..) so this made matters worst.

Spoiler alert: We were able to survive this but lost a good amount of leaf mass and spend a good amount of energy in management of the infestation. More on that in our next posts 😉 



Day 37 – Trimming Pop Corn Buds

Now that our plants have well entered the flowering stage we can identify the bud sites that we want to keep and those that need to go (aka pop corn buds)
This is also the “last” opportunity to cut branches that are not receiving direct light, thus taking energy produced by photosynthesis of other sections of the plant.

What are pop-corn buds?

Basically Pop-corn buds are those small buds growing low of at the middle of your stems.
These area’s will generally produce low quality buds while taking a lot of energy to produce. It is much better to remove these buds in order to keep the energy for the buds higher up on the stem.

The earlier you are able to identify and remove these pop corn buds the more energy your plant will place into your main buds.

You might need to repeat the procedure once or twice if your plant sprouts new bud area’s but this shouldn’t be the case.

What might happen though is that you notice that you’ve missed a couple further down the road, at which point you’ll have to make the call.
Are they going to produce anything worthy or are you getting a blunt or two out of it? In the second case, get her to go.
(if you’re far enough down the line get it drying, it’ll be an early, lower quality taste of your harvest)


Pop corn buds shown of fruit strain
Pop corn buds shown of Critical+ 2.0 strain


How to cut pop corn buds?

  1. Identify what branches to remove
  2. Take scissors or a cutter (optional but recommanded)
  3. Place your fingers or cutter at the base of the flower
  4. Pinch/Cut off the bud

As you can see this is pretty simple and very similar to removing branches off your marijuana plant. Be careful not to damage the outer layer of the branch or stem.

As you can see in the last picture, by doing this with your fingers the cut isn’t very clean, since a clean cut will heal faster, it’s better to use a blade or scissors in order to trim your marijuana plant.


Focus on a pop corn bud

Pinching the flower in order to remove it

Area where the pop corn bud used to be


Our trimming session included pop corn buds and a branch of one of our Critical branches.

Why would we cut off a full branch? It was being covered by a large leaf over head so it was either that leaf of the branch, normally it’s pretty straight forward, the leaf has got to go, but in this case we already had pruned too many top leaves so we decided to cut the branch itself.

Here’s some pictures of a plant right before and after a pruning session

Before Pruning Marijuana

Cannabis plant before its last pruning of the flowering stage


After Pruning Marijuana

Cannabis plant before its last pruning

As you can see a large amount of buds are gone and this is good! Instead of having a bunch of small buds the plant will be able to focus on the remaining flowers to make them big and beautiful.

Our pruning was pretty late, as you can see in the images of what we’ve removed the plants had already started producing trichomes, so we lost a good amount of energy.. although in this case I think it’s better late than never

Here’s some of what removed and a focus on what a early marijuana flower looks like. As always click on the image to view it fully

Full branch and flower being trimmed off


Removed popcorn buds


Close up on early marijuana flower and trichomes


Day 38 and 39 – Calm before the storm

After those 2 pretty active days, day 38 and 39 was pretty calm. We watered out plants with some more nutrients in order to see if the white marks was some type of deficiency (so wrong) and let the plants recover from the recent pruning.

Little did we know that while we though our plants were recovering from an attack they were also being infested by some nasty bugs… But that’s for the next post of our indoor grow journal.

Until then, be safe and grow easy!


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    Welcome back to our Critical+ 2.0 auto-flowering and Fruit auto-flowering series!
    If you haven’t been following up here’s a little recap.

    A little over a month ago we germinated 7 marijuana seeds, 2 Critical+ 2.0 auto-flowering and 5 Fruit auto-flowering. Unfortunately one of those fruit seeds didn’t take so we were left with 6 babies.

    During the early vegetative stage we had couple issues with the balance of our sprouts and early stem with about 2/3 of our plants.

    After that the flowering stage got going waaaaay too early because the main root hit resistance.. Yeahwhat makes the an auto flowering plant go into the flowering stage is the root system… something we didn’t know and learned with this one! We’ve covered all that in our guide on auto flowering seeds if you want to know more.

    So here we are, after the first days of the stretch, and you’re going to see that she’s totally changing, welcome to the teenage years!


    Day 32 – Auto-flowering seeds entering the stretch

    Focus on the best Fruit strain weed of the 6


    Global view of the 6 plants entering the stretch


    Showing How to prune the leaf off marijuana


    So during day 33 we started cutting (pruning) some branches and leaves. Normally you do this during the vegetative stage, but since we kind of got blind sided we’re doing this know.

    We’re also having many deficiency issues as you can see with the colors of most of our plants.. Although it seems like the decision of lifting the lights about 15cm (5.9inch) did some good to them. Here’s a couple pictures of the leaves showing issues. We’ve got hypothesis’s on why it’s happening but still not sure… One we figure it out we’ll Update this section to let you know! (If you have an idea share in the comment section!)





    Spotting deficiencies during the stretch

    So our suspicion here is Light burn. We hadn’t lifted our light yet since we put them in the grow room, it was about 20cm over head which isn’t that close, but they had been used to a light source that was further up so who knows it’s possible.

    I know you might be telling yourself “that’s Nitrogen deficiency”. There are 2 things that go against that hypothesis:

    1. I’ve given them plenty, some of the plants with these deficiencies are actually also showing signs of nutrient burn
    2. The dead leafs aren’t falling of very easily, you have to pinch or cut them off to remove them from the stalk.

    Now that second point is actually the one that hinted me off the most. Why? Because Nitrogen deficiency and light burn globally have the same signs, apart from 2 things. One of them being that with ND the dying leafs will just fall off, whereas with light burn they are hard to remove.

    The only this that has me still hesitating is the fact that these signs are coming from the bottom of the plant, where normally light burn starts on top (second difference). But, these are also the main leaves receiving light, so it’s not totally crazy to think this.

    In the pictures I didn’t show the next steps, but the leaf becomes all brown and dead, after which you need to pinch it or clip it off. This way to remove it is pretty unusual for a dead part of the plant.

    Anyway, we brought the light up, hope it will do the trick.. they’re already not that big, loosing leaf mass is the last thing we want during the flowering stage.

    This is a bit paradoxal with what I just said, but we’ve also been pruning some of our plants.

    The one’s with the most deficiencies we’re cutting off all the side branches and pop corn buds, on the others removing the leafs in order to give direct light access to the branches below.


    Pruning the marijuana leafs during the stretch

    Focus on Critical+ 2.0 before pruning


    Showing How to prune the leaf off marijuana


    Focus on Critical+ 2.0 after pruning


    We’re going to go over the pruning (or cutting) of marijuana leafs and branches in 3 steps:

    • How choose the leafs or branches you’re going to prune
    • How to prune your marijuana plant
    • What are we aiming for in this culture

    In this example we’re taking a leaf as an example, but it’s basically the same thing with branches.

    How to decide what to prune off your plant

    During the stretch you really want to minimise extensive growth. The taller the plant, the more energy it takes to get the nutrients for the soil to the colas, as well as the “food” created by photosynthesis.

    Keeping this in mind, if the branches you decided to keep don’t have direct sunlight due to a leaf making shade you need to cut that leaf. If you think it’s too risky because you don’t have enough leaf mass than cut that branch (or wait a little if you’re still in the vegetative stage).

    Again, normally this is something best done during the vegetative stage since you can most likely recover, but we don’t really have a chance here.

    Now that you’ve identified what you want to cut off, let’s look at how to do so.

    How to prune your marijuana plant

    1. Identify the leafs or branches you want to remove
    2. Pinch at the intersection between the leaf or branch and the stalk of the plant. You can also decide to use a pair of scissors or clippers.
      Whatever you use make sure you don’t damage the outer skin of the main stalk.
    3. Clip the branche off

    In the case where the branch doesn’t cut straight off and the other skin of the main stem is still attached, cut it as close as the stem as possible. Try to damage it as less as possible.

    The days following this you will see the other sections of the plants grow more, the energy previously used at this spot have been reallocated!


    Identifying which leaf to cut of the plant

    Showing How to prune the leaf off marijuana

    Bottom of the leaf that was pinched off the plant

    What are we aiming for in this culture

    With 2 or 3 of our plants we’re decided to go for a one bud situation. The plants we picked only had 1 pair of small side branches and are the weakest ones. This will enable them to focus the energy they do have on their core flowers.

    With the other flowers we decided to keep the main bottom branches, hoping that they will also produce a good amount of buds. We’ve remove all the “popcorn buds” or branches not receiving any direct light, hoping the cola buds will finish out to be nice and dense.

    This means that on half the plants we had to mainly cut branches off, keeping the leaves for photosynthesis. On the other half we cut mainly leaves so that the main branches can have access to a direct source of light.

    Globally we’re already aware that our harvest won’t be too crazy, this early flowering kind of screwed us.. But it’s alright, we learned something and could share it with you guys!


    Day 33 – Nothing special to report

    On this day nothing special really happened, so we’re going to share some pice with you guys!


    Day 34 – Changing to a Sodium Bulb

    So we’ve entered the flowering stage for a couple days now and decided to change the light bulb so the sodium based one. The main difference between both is the light spectrum they emit. The vegetative light is more of a white/blue light whereas the Sodium based one if is more in a orange/infra red spectrum.

    I’ve been reading around that during the stretch it can be good to keep the white light in order to reduce the spacing between the nodes, but honestly I don’t feel like doing more testing with these one’s, one yield isn’t going to be crazy, we’ll keep that test for the next run around!

    Here’s a couple pics after the light change

    P.S: remember to unplug your light before hand! I shocked myself, it hurts believe me!





    I don’t know if you guess which one’s we’ve decided to go for a one bud or not off these pics, we’ll let you know in the next article!

    We’re also going to go for another round or pruning, but for the flowers this time. We want the energy of the plants to focus on the main flowers on the top colas, not the one’s further down the stem that have little chance to make anything worth it.

    Until next time, be safe and grow easy!


    Check out our previous articles on our Critical+ 2.0 and Fruit Marijuana Strains

    Hey everyone, hope everything’s going good. On our end we had a bad surprise after transplanting these babies… They started flowering…
    Now, if you’ve been following you see how tall they are right? You’ll agree that we definitely needed more time in the vegetative stage. This got us going with deficiencies and possible light burn, still not sure.

    Let’s get into these past couple days. Unfortunately I don’t have any pics for day 26, so we’ll start on day 27.

    Here’s what we are going to cover:

    • Day 27 – Deficiencies and First signs of the flowering stage
    • Day 29 – Watering the Critical + 2.0
    • Day 30 – Transplanting the last plants


    Day 27 – Deficiencies and First signs of the flowering stage

    Close up on Critical + 2.0 starting to flower


    High view of the plants entering the flowering stage


    Horizontal view of the strongest weed plant

    On these pictures you can clearly see a couple issues.. Let’s decrypt them together.

    On the one on the left you can start seeing the first pistils of the flower showing up on the Apex. These one’s are much less advanced than the one’s visible on the article’s main image, but nonetheless you can see the starting to sprout up.

    Within the middle picture you can see than most of our plants are showing signs of deficiencies. As we started suspecting during the previous days, this is most likely Nitrogen Deficiency.

    It would make even more sense due to the fact that they are entering the stretch phase, time at which the plant consumes a large amount of Nitrogen in order to grow.

    This means that the next watering definitely needs a good amount of Nitrogen, especially since the cannabis plant stop intaking Nitrogen after the Stretch.
    I might actually have to pulverise some on the leafs one of these nights.

    On the last image you can see the leafs facing upwards. This is a sign that our lights are too close and need to be brought up.
    Light burn can do a lot of harm to your plants, even ruin your harvest! So be careful and make sure you have at least 25cm (10inch.) between the light and the Apex’s of the plants.

    If you’re wondering why these plants started to flower without a shift if photoperiods here’s the quick answer, we’ll put a link below to our article if you want to know more.

    Since these plants are auto-flowering plants they don’t depend on photoperiods in order to get into the flowering stage, so what do they depend on?

    Auto-flowering plants start the flowering stage when the main roots have hit bottom. Meaning that when the main root cannot go deeper, the plant will start going into the stretch phase.

    Don’t make the mistake I made and pot your auto-flowering seeds directly into your final pots. That way you’re sure they won’t flower early


    Day 29 – Time to Water the Critical+ 2.0

    3 of the 6 plants are showing strong signs of thirst, time to water!

    Here we are again to a watering time. Now if you look well you can see that not all the plants are showing signs of thirst. I suspect this is our fault, after the transplantation we must have watered some plants more than others.
    The other possibility is root development. If the root system of these plants isn’t as developed as their sisters than they cannot access what they need within the new soil. Meaning that the humidity is there, she just can’t get it.

    You can also see that the deficiencies have continued to spread across the leafs, showing that we haven’t fixed the issue yet..
    It might be due to the fact that they haven’t taken in the nutrients yet, so we’re going to have to wait it out, or else we might go from nutrient deficiencies to nutrient burn.

    Apart from that, it’s really time for our 2 last plants to be transplanted, it’s been almost a week since the 4 others are in their new pots, if we wait too much longer we’re going to have problems with them, and they’re are best one’s out of the bunch so that really would suck


    Day 30 – Transplanting the last Critical + 2.0 Marijuana plants

    Last weed plant being transplanted, you can see its root system invaded the soil


    Global view of all our plants in the new pots, you can see strong deficiencies


    Horizontal view of the plants, you can clearly see the difference between the plants

    So we finally got these last one’s into their new pots. They weren’t supposed to be their final pots, but since these babies have started to flower I don’t really have a choice here..

    You can see on the left picture that they had well invaded the ground. If you look close you can even see some roots starting to exit what used to be the bottom wholes of the pot. This is definitely a sign that I should of transplanted earlier.

    In the middle picture you can see that our issues just keep going, have some leafs starting to go white on the tips, other already dead, it’s just not looking good.
    On top of adding some more Nitrogen during the last watering, I started to add so P and K (Phosphorous and Potassium) as well as raised the light a bit.

    Hopefully that will do it will stop spreading.. the one’s the most hurt are the one’s with the less leaf mass which is a big problem, their going to concentrate of leaf growth during the flowering stage, where we want them to be growing some fat buds.

    On the last picture you can clearly see the differences in our late plant vs the earlier one’s. The earlier ones have week stems, their first stage is much higher off the ground and they have much less branches and stages.
    It’s crazy how a small difference during the first 2 days of their lives can make such a big difference later on.

    Now you might also be wondering what that brown looking thing is. It’s actually an “eco pot”, made out of organic material.
    A friend gave it to me and we’re testing it, it’s supposed to be better for the roots since they can grow into the sides of the “pot” instead of being stuck to the sides of the plastic one’s. We’ll see how it goes.


    That’s it for this one folks! In the next post we’ll start talking about cutting your branches and leafs in order to keep just what you need

    Until then, don’t hesitate to give feedback on this post, or if you’ve had similar situations, we’d love to hear about it.

    Be safe and grow easy!

    Hey there and welcome back for another update on our current marijuana plant.

    These little one’s now need a new home so it’s time to get them into a new pot. Now since we just watered we have to wait a day or two but it’s time. Let’s get into it.


    Day 22 – Growth during the vegetative stage

    Top view of the Critical+ 2.0 and Fruit plants

    So this is 2 days after watering the plants, the plants are pretty much chilling.
    The one on the top right is still drooping a little, but nothing serious. Here it seems like everything is on track, no deficiencies seem to be present, heat and humidity levels are good.

    One thing you can notice though is that the soil is starting to be dry (bottom right plant). After just 2 days since the watering, this is a strong sign that the roots have well invaded the ground and the transplantation of these marijuana plants should come soon.

    In our case, that’s the next day so let’s get to it.


    Day 24 – Transplanting the plants

    Before


    After

    So when you’re about to transplant you should be ready to be at it for at least 20 minutes per plant. Now obviously that depends on the size of your pots, but with all the different steps I think that’s a safe minimum.
    We documented all the details of transplanting your weed plant in a guide over here but here are the main details:

    • If you don’t transplant you will have root issues and you’re plant won’t be able to grow successfully.
    • The bigger the root system, the bigger the plant (and the buds).
    • You need to transplant your plant once the roots have invaded the soil.
    • Transplant between 2 waterings, when the soil isn’t too dry nor too humid.
    • Be careful, with auto-flowering seeds! They start to flower when the main root hits ground, don’t make the mistake we made and go straight for the 11L pots! Check out our guide ou auto-flowering plants if you want to know more
    • Expect stress signs the couple days following the transplantation.
    • Make sur you clean all the dirt off your leafs (don’t forget underneath!)
    • Water the new soil after the transplantation. This will push the roots to invade the new ground.

    This time around we only transplanted 4 out of our 6 plants, the reason why? I didn’t have enough pots… -_- Get everything you need before germination!

    Luckily 2 of the 6 plants were actually in bigger pots (since I didn’t have enough pots in germination time), so I had a couple days to get some (or that’s what I though, but getting ahead of myself here).

    Appart from that the transplantation was a bit of a struggle. The soil was a little too dry, and the roots were nicely stuck to the pots so a lot of tapping and bending the pot went on, but got all 4 of them out!
    Really the humidity level of the soil does it all, when its too dry it’s a fight. I probably spent 40 minutes just getting them out of their pots.

    After this, generally you want to water your plant right after transplanting them, in my case I waited the next day, which isn’t optimal, especially since the old soil was real dry.
    This is a little like a “what not to do guide”, and you’ll see in the upcoming days why I’m saying this…


    Day 25 – Watering after the transplantation

    using water sprayer to hydrate the soil


    First visible deficiencies after the transplantation

    So the day after the transplantation you can see the first deficiencies coming in.
    See on the right picture how the weed leaf is turning yellow. It started at the tip and is working itself inwards.
    Seems to me like Nitrogen deficiency, so I boosted a little the amount in this mix, adding about 2.5ml for 2L of water. Hopefully that will do the trick.

    These signs are showing up on all our plants unfortunately, but it’s also giving us the opportunity to cover nitrogen deficiency!

    Apart from that they seem to be enjoying their new home, although this watering was really needed.


    alright folks well that’s it for this one! See you guys in a few days.

    Until then, be safe and grow easy!


    Don’t want to go just yet?

    Check out the days of this little one’s life

    Check out our previous cultures

    By now our plant was finally ready to get into the flowering stage so we changed the light period from 18/6 to 12/12 of lighting, meaning the plant gets into her stretch phase. This is where she grows a large amount over 2 weeks, by the end of this phase small flowers we’ll be visible on your buds.
    If you’re want to know more about the stretch check out our FAQ on the subject.

    We’re going to go over the stretch in 4 stages:

    1. Switching the light cycle to 12/12
    2. Changing to the yellow light
    3. The Stretch: Period of very strong growth
    4. The early flowering stage: Showing her first buds


    Scrog just changed the light cycle


    just changed to the yellow light for flowering stage of SCROG


    Stretch of Big Buddha Cheese on ScrOG - strong growth


    First buds showing at the end of the stretch phase of Big Buddha Cheese


    Changing the light cycle

    So in order to start the flowering stage you need to change the light cycle from 18hours of light to 12 hours.
    That change will trigger a natural response in the plant telling her its time to focus on the flowers.
    At this point the stretch starts, for 2 weeks she will grow before focusing purely on flower production.

    For the first couple days after the switch, I like to keep the vegetative stage light in order to reduce the amount of possible stress given to the plant.

    Here’s a picture of her a day or two after changing the light. As you can see, no real big change between the vegetative stage yet.



    Scrog just changed the light cycle



    Changing to the Sodium light

    I’m using two 400 Watts MH/HPS light bulbs. During the vegetative stage I use the Metal Halide (MH) based light, then switch to the High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lighting during the flowering stage. We’ll do a piece on this, but basically it’s the technic that’s proven to work, although you get more heat issues.

    After two/three days of switching the light schedule that’s when I switch from the MH bulb to the HPS one. I do this in order to try and reduce the stress given at once.
    After this, she’s fully in her flowering environment.

    You can see in the image below that she already started growing nicely during the couple first days.



    just changed to the yellow light for flowering stage of SCROG



    The Stretch: Period of very strong growth

    Now I don’t know if you can really tell with the picture below, but for an indica strain her stretch was pretty decent. She grew at least 60% on her main branches.
    It’s really too bad I messed up and didn’t cut down most of those branches, I could of had a real nice flowering stage with this one.

    If you’re wondering what are the differences between indica and sativa check out our piece here.

    At this time you should be reducing the levels of Nitrogen given gradually, once the stretch begins her intake will reduce little by little.
    While reducing the Nitrogen increase little by little the levels of Phosphorus and Potassium that you give them.



    Stretch of Big Buddha Cheese on ScrOG - strong growth



    The early flowering stage: Showing her first buds

    By the end of the stretch we enter the early flowering stage. You can see in the image below her the first little buds. This white little string like pistils will grow in quantity and size, by the end of this transformation they will look like the buds you’re familiar with 🙂

    By this time you should have cut off the Nitrogen nutrients, and start the Phosphorus and Potassium one’s. By now your plant won’t ingest Nitrogen through her roots anymore so you might as well safe it.
    She needs Phosphorus and Potassium now in order to produce the flowers we all love so much.



    First buds showing at the end of the stretch phase of Big Buddha Cheese



    Alright folks that’s all for this one! next time we’ll go over the flowering stage of this little one.

    Until then, be safe and grow easy! 😉


    Check out all our Big Buddha Cheese grow reports

    Hi there, Welcome back to another edition of our Critical + 2.0 and Fruit culture!
    We’re now about three weeks after the germination of these little ones and they’ve been coming along pretty nicely.

    Critical + 2.0 And Fruit: Third week of the vegetative stage

    For the past week we’ve had issues in the balance of 3 of our plants and it’s been pretty rough. I’m happy to finally say that by day 21 we passed that hurdle! We actually did an article covering balance issues during the early vegetative stage if you want to check it out.

    During this week, apart from those balance issues we went through heat stress and a nice watering, By the end of the week they were looking pretty happy and soon to be ready to get transplanted, but I’m getting ahead of myself here.
    Let’s go through these couple days together.

    Day 16 – Final days of our balance issues

    Focus on four weed plants in early vegetative stage

    At this point the plant on the bottom left corner was now stable, we had had the fan blowing over it for the past 2 days and the stem got strong enough to hold. We still decided to keep the pencil in for a couple days just in case. The 3 other ones.. not so much
    You can see that the one with the biggest issues (top right) is still very top heavy, without the 2 stakes she would be totally horizontal to the ground. Technically she could survive that way, but we’ll agree that it’s not optimal.

    On this issue, only time will tell if what we’ve done is enough, any way she should grow strong enough to stand straight, but it’s using up energy to do so instead of growing leaf mass.


    Day 17 – It’s getting hot in the grow room!

    Themometer showing 33 degrees in the grow house

    Sooooo woke up this morning, the humidifier was out and it got up to 33°C(91°F) in there!! (Reminder: You really don’t want to get over 29°C), with the 14% humidity, really not the best way to wake up.

    Luckily it didn’t really last very long, filled up the humidifier and it dropped back down to 27°C pretty quickly. It didn’t seem to really do much damage, although one of them is showing signs of heat stress.

    On the picture below of day 19, you can see the edges of the leafs curling up, this might be signs of heat stress happening, so I really got to be careful during the upcoming days that the temperature doesn’t get too high (just bought a brand new fan!).


    Day 19 – Watering time for these  plants!

    Drooping marijuana leaves showing that it's time to water

    See how the leafs of the plant are drooping down? This is the plant showing that its thirsty and you really need to water them ASAP

    Now we did a whole guide on watering your marijuana plants that you can check out here but as a reminder here are the main points:

    • During the vegetative stage you want to give Nitrogen based solutions.
    • Give about a quart of soil volume in water.
    • Add some root booster to your mix
    • Keep the pH between 6 and 7

    Now as you can see on the image, I already watered her and she’s still drooping. This is normal, it takes a couple hours for her to get back to her good old self!
    Now if that’s not the case then you might be overwatering your plant so cool down. We’ll do a whole article on that soon but if you’re suspecting this, just chill out on the watering for a little less than a week, then water her, she should be better by then.


    Day 20 – Nicely watered plants, getting back to growth

    Top view of critical + 2.0 and Fruit plants after watering

    These little one’s really enjoyed to watering, look at the nice green color, their leafs are nice and strong, basically just looking great 🙂
    Now if you can notice, on the 2 right ones the soil is already dry on top layer and you can’t see but it’s also the case within the medium. These are the first signs that they are going to need a new home.

    We still have stakes holding on all 4 plants just to be safe, although they seem to be holding up by now.
    At this point, better safe than sorry so we’re going to keep them in as long as there’s hesitation.
    Apart from that they’re pretty much living their lives now, chilling.

    That’s it for this one guys, on the next post we’re going to go over the transplantation of these little one’s among other things.

    Until then, be safe and grow easy


    Looking for tips on indoor growing?


    Check out our previous culture: Big Buddha Cheese using SCROG

    Welcome back to the Big Buddha Cheese series! If you’ve been with us all the way, it’s been a fun but rough ride!
    We started with 4 cuttings, only 1 survived, so to maximise the harvest we decided to try our first SCROG ever! on our first plan ever, a bunch of firsts ^^

    As you can see, by now we’ve got one nice looking plant, developing a large number of branches.
    At this point we really made a huge mistake, which we’re going to cover here so that you don’t make it with your screen of green!

    Let’s get going, to recap in this article we’re going to cover:


    SCROG: What nutrients to give your plant during the vegetative stage

    Your plant is going need all the energy she can in order to take over this screen. Now its important to remind this, nutrients are not the source of energy for a plant, light is through photosynthesis, nutrients are only a supplement.
    That said, the mix is pretty straight forward as always during the vegetative stage.
    Here’s to mix we gave here so that you can adjust your own, as a reminder we also inputed the temperature and humidity levels:

    Nutrient Amount
    Nitrogen based 3/4ml for every 2L of water
    Root booster 1.5 ml/2L the first weeks, after 0ml
    Temperature Between 20°C and 26°C
    Humidity Around 50%

    Now remember with nutrients, it’s always better to go lower than over. If you notice Nitrogen deficiencies, just add a little more at your next watering, it’s always easier than dealing with nutrient burn


    Ok, now you have you’re plant going on your screen, cool! but what to do? Do you just keep weaving indefinitely? Let her grow as much as she wants until your max is reached? sooo many question, we’re going to try to answer them all!

    SCROG: What to do during the vegetative stage

    While your Cannabis plant grows you’re going to need to guide her, make sure she doesn’t waste her energy.
    On the pictures i’m going to share, you’ll see the example of… basically what not to do. This was our first run, I was thinking “Lets get as much branches, we’ll have a bunch of buds, yay!”, but really this is the worst thing possible.

    Here’s what you want to do:

    1. Keep weaving the branches that you’ve dedicated to invading the screen.
      While doing so, identify the one’s you’re going to keep out of the one’s that are growing off of your main branches.
      Generally you’ll see 2 branches growing at each knot, I like to keep the top one out of both.
    2. Make sure there’s enough room between each branch you’ve chosen.
      I like to have one or two wholes of the screen of distance between each branch so that they have room to grow nice leaves to catch light, without making shade to their neighbour.
    3. Cut any branches that are not the one’s you’ve chosen.
    4. Cut any leafs that are too low, making shade to your branches or not generating any energy.
      Be careful when cutting top leaves, you want to leave some to the branch in question! She needs to make food too
    5.  Keep this process going during the whole vegetative stage

    Cutting your branches and leafs in this manner will do 2 things.
    The first, it will boost growth in the younger areas of the plant, that have more light exposure.
    Secondly, the plant can focus its energy on a couple strong branches instead of spreading it out all over the place. This will give strong branches instead of many weak ones.
    You’ll thank me for this when you have a couple nice huge buds instead of a bunch of shy one’s 😉

    Now as promised, our free-growing scrog

    plant weaved over the net and string pulling the branches


    Weed plan growing all over the place due to uncontroled scrog


    Cannabis Scrog during stretch stage


    So full disclosure that last one is during the stretch. But you can see over her life she started growing soooo many branches, at that time I was all excited about it. But really, choose your branches, cut the rest.
    For you guys to compare, check out our second run, this time we didn’t hesitate of cutting down what was needed. Look at the difference:


    Stretch period of Blue Thai scrog


    10 flowering buds on a scrog


    Now you can see on this one that there are less individual branches than our Big Buddha cheese, but these buds are so much bigger than the final render is much bigger this way.

    Appart from that look at the difference in size of those leafs!


    Before we leave you, we wanted to make a last little part on defoliation and its importance.

    The importance of defoliation

    So defoliation is the action of cutting leafs and branches off your leafs.

    As we’ve seen, when doing a screen of green this is crucial in order to contain and concentrate to growth of the plant. This doesn’t mean using other styles of indoor growing you should defoliate.
    During the vegetative stage, you should always defoliate your plants, here are some quick advantages of doing so:

    • Your plant will grow faster
    • Your plant will grow newer leafs higher up the stem, thus have better access to the light source
    • A few dense buds are better than a bunch of buds with hardly no flowers on them
    • Your plant will look nicer


    Alright that’s it for this one! next time we’ll go over the stretch of this strain, soon you’ll get to see her flowers 😉

    Until then, be safe and grow easy

    Going through all these balance issues with 2 of our plants we decided to do a quick piece on balance issues with marijuana plants during the early vegetative stage. Hopefully this will help some of you that have the same issue, or to avoid having it in the first place.
    Here’s what we’re going to cover:

    Why does Marijuana get balance issues

    Generally a plant gets a balance problem when the direction of the light source pushes it to grow in an un-natural fashion. Either too fast, or at an angle that it cannot sustain in the long run.
    This can be generated by:

    • A light source to far from it’s Apex: The plant will grow so tall the stem won’t be able to hold the weight of the top anymore.
    • A light source too far to the side. Try to keep your light source as centered as possible to all your plants. If you can’t then get it a little closer (without giving them light burn)

    In our case, during its very early growth the light we used was too far from them and not strong enough.
    The 2 earliest sprouts just grew straight up to get as much light as they needed.
    Once they we’re tall enough they started growing leaf mass, but its weak stem cannot hold all that weight, and after a little growth the plant falls over.

    Now, plants are pretty well built, she will adapt in order to face the light source, but we will all agree that a horizontal stem isn’t the most optimal for a plant. You can see this right here on the picture. Found her like that one day, she had fallin over and stayed that way a couple hours so she adapted, facing up.

    Lets get to how to avoid these situations early on, and then how to fix it.



    Horizontale view of the marijuana's balance issues


    How to avoid balance issues during the early vegetative stage

    As we said earlier, the Cannabis plant will have issues with balance if the light source isn’t strong enough or not aligned with the plant. Here are our tips to avoid these issues all together:

    • If you don’t have your sprouts in your grow room during the first 2/3 days after sprouting, keep the light source about 15/20cm (6 inch.) over the apex of the plants
    • Get your plants in the grow house tops 3 days after breaking ground or if the sprouts are over 5cm (1.5inch.) high
    • Keep your light source aligned with the top of your plants. If your using desk lights, add a second light source

    Just by getting your plants into your grow room quickly you can avoid any issues, here’s an example between 2 of our plant that had the same conditions, except one of them spent much more time out of the grow house after breaking the ground than the other.

    On the left you will see the one that broke ground earlier, the one on the right broke ground about 2 days later.

    Day 2 – I need light!!

    Days 2 - stretching for light source

    You can see the she’s been focusing on growing high in order to reach for the light source. You’d think this is cool to get a nice big plant, but at this point it’s not really what you want, you want leaf mass.


    Day 0 – Hello World!

    Plant just breaking ground

    This little one’s just coming out of the ground and discovering the world. Her 5 sisters have been out for a while now, this is really the late bloomer of the batch.


    Day 4 – All the light I need, lets get some leaf

    Growing 1st main leafs, seems to hold up

    By day 4 of this early bloomers life they were in the grow house. This one is the first that broke and the tallest out of them all.
    Growing in height got her late in leaf production, which isn’t really the best thing here, especially that these are auto-flowering seeds so there’s no control over the length of the vegetative stage


    Day 2 – Ah in the grow house with some nice lighting

    Plenty of light, starting to grow first main leafs

    The entry into the grow house was on day 2 for this one, you can see that appart from a little burn to the new leafs due to the change in lighting being so abrupt. I should of eased her into the new environment by doing a 12 hours in/12 hours out of the grow house during the first days.

    Apart from that it’s all going great for this little one


    Day 8 – Top heavy and falling over

    The entry into the grow house was on day 2 for this one, you can see that appart from a little burn to the new leafs due to the change in lighting being so abrupt. I should of eased her into the new environment by doing a 12 hours in/12 hours out of the grow house during the first days.

    Apart from that it’s all going great for this little one


    Day 6 – Chillin’ and growing leaf mass

    Growing the second stage of leafs

    The entry into the grow house was on day 2 for this one, you can see that appart from a little burn to the new leafs due to the change in lighting being so abrupt. I should of eased her into the new environment by doing a 12 hours in/12 hours out of the grow house during the first days.

    Apart from that it’s all going great for this little one


    Day 10 – Starting to stabilise and growing

    2 stake method allowing plant to grow stronger

    By the 10th day you can see that she’s pretty much stabilise, although she still can hold up on her own.

    Soon enough she’ll be holding up just fine, although all of this will have used up some energy!


    Day 8 – Growing 3rd stage of leafs

    growing 3rd stage of leafs

    You can see that by day 8 this plant almost looks like the one from day 10, why’s this? She didn’t have to waste any energy on growing up vertically, so she’s shorter but already has a strong source of energy to get her growth going!
    I’ve got a feeling this one will be the diamond of the batch


    Day 14 – Tall and now Balanced

    tall and spaced out plant, finally balancing out

    By Day 14, the plant had finally gotten strong enough to hold on their own. I’m still leaving the stakes in just in case but I’m going to get them out of there real soon.

    I’ve got the fan blowing on them for the past couple days which got the stem to start strengthening which is a good sign


    Day 12 – Short but growing strong

    Plant did not grow tall but tight nots and strong

    This one’s just nice, she’s short, with some very tight knots which is a good sign to get a nice and dense plant. She’s short but her stem is already nice and strong, much wider than her sisters. The 3rd stage of leafs is already growing! Kind of confirming the idea that this will be the nicest one of the batch (don’t want to jinx it though ^^)


    As you can see, just a difference within the first 2 days of growth you can have a strong impact on the early days of the vegetative stage, so it’s important to be careful as soon as you get your seeds going.

    Lets get into how to fixe balance issues


    How to fix Marijuana balance issues

    Here you have 2 objectives:

    1. Keep the stem as straight as possible
    2. Get the stem stronger so that it can hold itself up

    Let’s go over the ways to accomplish these objectives


    Keeping the Marijuana stem upright

    1. Get a long piece of wood, it should be at least the height of your stem, if not a little longer
    2. Get the stem into the ground near the base.
      careful not to brake any roots!
    3. Get the stem to lean onto the wooden stake, allowing her to stand upright
    4. If need be, get a second stake on the other side of the stem in order to hold her up.
      Don’t hesitate to use the leafs to balance the plant out
    5. Get your fan to blow just over the top of the Apex, so that it’s moving a little, this will get your stem to strengthen.
      If you can’t because your plant keeps falling, wait until it’s a bit stronger to do this



    6 day old plant holding with stakes


    Week old plant holding up with 2 stakes


    vegetative stage balance issues


    Alright that’s it for this one folks, we’ll be posting about day 15 to 20 of these Critical + 2.0 and fruit babies in the upcoming days,

    Until then, be safe and grow easy!

    Hey there, welcome back to another edition of the Big Buddha Cheese series!

    On this post we’re going to go over:

    Being my first I was really exited at each new stage of this plant, and really just reading all over the place to try and find answers to all my questions.

    So let’s get started

    The vegetative stage of Big Buddha Cheese

    As we say in the previous post we had just gotten out of Nitrogen deficiencies and Nutrient burn, so needless to say we we’re being veeeery careful on nutrient levels.

    Basically our mix was of about 5ml of vegetative grow for every 2L of water, given every other watering. She seemed to react pretty good to this so we kept it going.

    If you’re looking for tips on watering you’re marijuana plant check out our article right here

    She was also growing a large number of new branches and leafs, I made the mistake here to let them all grow, when really I should of cut down the leaf and branch mass.

    This is what she looked like at this stage

    big buddah cheese - first half of the vegetative stage


    big buddah cheese just about ready for scrog installation


    In the left picture she’s 20 days into the vegetative stage, the one on the right is 2 days later.

    You can see that we’ve chosen a couple branches and that we’re pulling them with string to the side. The objective for this was to get them growing laterally so that they would get direct access to light.
    The second idea behind it is to have multiple branches “invading” the screen during the next steps. This actually worked out pretty well!

    Once you have chosen your branches, don’t hesitate to cut unwanted starts once in a while.

    I should have also gone for a big trim here, cutting of all branches and leafs that are useless so that she could focus on the growth of the rest.

    At this point, we decided that the next day was the day to install the screen (drumroll)


    Installing the Screen Of Green

    So we did this over 4 days.

    On day 1 we installed the screen and starting pulling the branches towards the whole we wanted them to go to. Each day we would lower the screen a little bit, that way we would gain space to start weaving her, without stressing her out too much, I call the “the acclimatation phase”

    By day 4 they had reached high enough for us to start weaving the branches on the screen, let the invasion begin!

    If you want more info on installing a scrog, check out our tutorial over here

    Here’s how it went step by step:


    day 1 : Installing the screen

    just installed the screen, apex is passing over the screen

    At this point all we did was get the screen in and slide it down at her level.
    Now I strongly advise installing the screen high up and slide it down slowly. If it falls you might just brake your plant.

    After getting it at the Apex’s level we got some of those top leaves laying on the screen so that they would get as much light as possible, but also so that she started getting used to the screen.


    day 2 : Branches going through the screen

    2nd day after installing the screen, branches are passing over it

    By the end of the second day we we’re pleased to see that the branches had grown and started passing through the screen.

    In order to take a little more advantage of the previous growth we also brought down the screen a little, which went pretty well. As you can see we also started bending the Apex over the first screen


    day 4 : Weaving the branches onto the screen

    As you can see by the 4th day after installing the screen, the branches had well passed over the level of the net, meaning it’s time for the first session of weaving :).
    Here’s how to weave a marijuana plant for a scrog in image:


    How to weave your branches for your SCROG

    1. Identify the direction you want each branch to go in. This planning step is important, you want to make sure that each branch has at least one free space to its left, and one to its right
    2. Bend the top of the branch over the first line and under the next one.
      Don’t hesitate to tie down the branch onto the netting so that it holds.
      In the first image on the side here you can see how we tied the apex on both nettings in order to pass her under and over the screen.
    3. Cut any leafs making shade to a spot where a branch could come out. You should also cut the branches that are to close to each other. At each not you should have tops 1 branch growing vertically.
    4. Take a string, on one end tie it around the top of your branch and the other tie it in the direction where you want you plant to go on the screen. Don’t hesitate to pull well on her she can take it.
      You can see on the last image of the set how each branch is weaving over and under the screen, as well as the green string pulling them in the direction we want her to go.

    Thanks to this technique, with just one plant you can actually fill up a whole grow room! the only thing is that you’ll keep her in a longer vegetative stage.


    guiding the apex over the screen during scrog
    the top of each branch has been folded over and under the net
    plant weaved over the net and string pulling the branches


    That’s all for this one guys! On the next article we’ll go over her invasion on the screen, it got pretty dense hehe

    Until then, be safe and grow easy

    Critical +2.0 and Fruit auto-flo:  First days of Growth

    So for the past couple days we’ve been fighting this top heavy issue, and what a fight…

    This morning I was pleased to see that 2 out of 5 are basically standing on their own (the bottom left one being a late bloomer, she doesn’t have this issue)

    Had another surprise, which wasn’t so pleasing.
    As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words

    Focus on a sprout still to heavy

    As you can see this little one is basically parallel to the ground.

    This one is worrying me a little, the stem just can’t hole up the weight of the leafs. We’ll see how she evolves during the next couple days but we might have to set something up to get her standing.

    Apart from that they’re pretty much chilling, the leaf mass has been increasing nicely which is cool, the second stage seems to be appearing from the most advanced ones, I’m pretty confident on this round.

    So as I told you guys on the previous post, the sprouts got too tall for their own weight making them fall over.

    Easy fix though, you just need to find something sturdy to support the main branch.
    Try and avoid anything that would hide the light from it.

    As you can see with the wet soil we’ve also given them water since then, here’s the mix we can them:

    • 4ml of Root Boost for 2L of water
    • Ph at 6.4

    For the moment we’re just letting them grow, I try to give them as less ingredients as possible.

    Apart from that there’ been some heat issues, getting up to 30°C in there, but they seem to be taking it alright..

    Here’s a couple pictures for the time period:

    The top heavy sprout supported by pieces of wood Top view of sprouts - Day 7

    That’s all for this one folks! talk to you guys in a couple days

    Mean while want to learn more about the sprouting stage?

    You can barely see the first soil be broken by the sprout

    Since this summer was pretty hot we couldn’t launch a production during a couple months, so we figured it was the opportunity to try out some auto-flowering seeds!

    Here’s the batch of Dinafem‘s seeds we decided to go with:

    • 5 Fruit Auto-Flowering seeds
    • 2 Critical + 2.0 Auto-Flowering seeds

    The cycle should be of about 2 months until harvest, so it’s going to be a pretty quick one!
    Unfortunately one of the Fruit seeds didn’t germinate, so we’re down to 6 plants.

    Appart from that loss there’s also been a couple issues with the sprouts starting ~day 3/4.
    So here we go with a little storytelling of the first few days went.


    Day 0: Breaking ground

    When I planted the seeds the roots were actually pretty long, some up to 1cm, so it only took the seeds about 2/3 days to break ground which was pretty cool.

    Last time I had done it prematurely and it took aver 10 days for some!

    Don’t miss this moment it’s pretty awesome to follow each step of the process.
    Here’s a couple pictures I took this round, during day 0 and day 1 (they grow so fast!)

    Day 0 : Cannabis sprout just breaking the soil  Image of a plant that just broke ground   First day after breaking ground, standing with the seed shell

    Day 2: The First Stretch

    Within 2 days (day 3/4), these little one’s took a couple centimetres. You’d think that’s a good thing, but in the end not really..
    Taking so much high creates 2 issues:

    1. It’s not concentrating it’s energy on producing leaf mass, that will in turn increase the production of energy through photosynthesis.
    2. Once the leaf mass will grow, the plants will get top heavy and tip over.

    I figured out the reason though.. my lamp was way to weak and far out. If you’re not already using the grow lamp at this stage, get the lamp at about 50cm from the Apex.

    Balances issues showing up on Cannabis plant Horizontale view of the marijuana's balance issues short terme solution

    How to deal with balance issues of a Marijuana plant?

    1. Take a straight stick or pencil to help the plan stand straight.
    2. Plan it in the soil in a manner that supports your plant.
      Be careful not to break any of those first roots!
    3. If you’re in my situation, get more light to the plants, so that they stop growing in height and start growing leaf mass.
      You can either get the light closer, get a light bulb that emmits more lumens or get a strong light source

    Having issues we didn’t cover here? Check out our comprehensive guide on Marijuana’s life cycle! We cover many different daily issues there

    That’s all for this one folk’s, see you in a couple days!